Le Bernadin

Yes, you read that right. I recently had the pleasure of dining at Le Bernadin, one of the top restaurants in the city! Rob's uncle took us and the family for dinner before an evening at the Met Opera. It was a ritzy and glamorous evening and will be hard to match. Three and a half years in NYC and I finally got to see a side of it I've never experienced before. Sometimes life is pretty good to me.

I'm not normally a huge seafood fan, but everything here was fantastic. In fact, a lot of things I'm not normally big of -- shrimp, dessert wine, heavy & rich chocolate desserts -- all of a sudden were amazing items that I could not get enough of. We had the chef's tasting menu with wine pairings for each course. I have never experienced this before and was absolutely blown away by the quality of wine and the perfection by which it complemented each carefully arranged course. Each dish was presented to us before the sauce, broth, "essence," or whatever other liquid was poured on top, directly at the table. The meal started with raw fish and eventually progressed to fully cooked seafood. We experienced something similar at Anissa with the course of tuna prepared in three ways: raw, seared, and cooked. I like it; it makes sense.

Our meal went like this:

First, our pre-course dish: raw baby shrimp in a spaghetti squash foam. The shrimp had perfect texture, tender and firm, without much of a taste themselves. The squash foam gave it a sort of sweet note.

First course: strips of very thin raw fluke, brushed with soy sauce and topped with crunchy "rice crispy" puffs for texture and flakes of gold. Not very often you can eat gold in this economy, unless you can afford a nip of Goldschlager of course. The taste was very mild and not mind-blowing, but I did enjoy the juxtaposition of slippery raw fish with crunchy toppings.

Second course was very Japanese: "ultra rare" scallops topped with daikon radish, shiso, lily bulb and sake with a super thin and delicate stick of cayenne laid on top (how do they do that with pepper?). It was good, but not incredibly memorable. I think the presentation might have outdone the taste on this one.

Next: seared salmon with a citrus emulsion and gingered baby bok choy. The website says there was also water chestnuts and "pea tendrils" but I didn't know that's what those are. This one was one of my favorites. I love the half-cooked style, the sashimi side and the cooked side taste almost completely different, and a forkful of both just makes it fun to eat. The citrus sauce was incredible. I could not stop myself from soaking up eary last bit with my sourdough roll; I know it was probably not the proper way to do it but I'm an Italian and that's just how its done.

Number four: skate wing with bamboo jus and dog ear mushroom atop fine cellophane noodles. Skate is always a treat for me as its very hard to properly cook. I've had skate as less-than-stellar restaurants and been disappointed by the hard texture or too many tiny bones. Not here; the skate easily came apart and was well-complemented by the glass noodle and faint bamboo taste. My favorite part of this course was probably the wine. Up until this point, every course was served with white wine; this one was served with a Flower pinot noir because the sommelier "likes to break the rules." That was A-OK with me because I like reds much more than whites, even if the whites do complement fish dishes better. The site I linked the wine to describes it as a "fruity bouquet supported by a clean minerality with hints of spice and violet." It's too bad that words can only go so far in describing it. It was so much more than that, but, I'm no better at trying to describe delicate tastes in a wine, so I won't bother trying to explain. But its good. Very good.

Last course before dessert was the pan-roasted monkfish. Now I've had monkfish liver at Bozu and Sushi Azabu, but never actual monkfish meat before. It was very fully cooked and tender, served with an amazing veal-based black garlic and Persian lemon sauce with dried pomegranates, I believe. Lots of interesting flavors, both heaty and light. The sauce had a subtle dried fruit tang to it. I enjoyed it, but not as much as the Israeli cousous tabbouleh. Oh My God. It was heavily lemon-scented and had an amazing firm texture that sort of popped in your mouth. I was savoring it slowly when I was told I had to hurry up if we wanted to make the opera. I hated shoveling this in but there was no way I was going to let it go until I was done.

Now for the desserts! The first was my favorite; panna cotta with pomegranate pearls and a side of pomegranate sorbet, adorned with myers lemon cream, orange peel and mint. Rob commented that if he could sit at the bar and order this every night he could, and he is not at all a dessert person, so that is some high praise right there. The greek yogurt had this soft texture and amazing taste that trumped any ice cream I have ever had. And I love ice cream, so there's some more high praise. Cue heavenly chorus!! The pom sorbet, eh. It was all about the panna cotta baby.

At some point in here we saw Eric Ripert walking around introducing himself. Not to us, mind you. But it was fun to gawk.

Next was the baked chocolate dessert. I did not record any information about this one because I had to eat it really quickly because the opera was going to start in like ten minutes and if we did not make the final bell then we were in trouble. I'm really not a fan of these types of heavy desserts but somehow it was perfect, the creamy hot and melty chocolate in the middle was heavenly. It was accompanied by some sort of coffee/hazelnut ice cream which was soft and melty and luckily a lot easier to gulp down than the delicious chocolate mess. By the time the petit fours came out, a car was outside and waiting for us. I was able to grab a tiny chocolate truffle and pistachio mousse -- it surprised me how good it was -- but at this point I was the only one left at the table and had to grab my coat and run. I regret not snatching the last two of the petits for the road.

We made the opera, but just barely. Once we opened our private door to our box seats and sat down, the opera started as if on cue. The Sicilian set of Cavalleria Rusticana was amazing. I was slightly tipsy from all the wine.

The entire evening was absolutely exquisite. And I'm not the type to use that word.

Le Bernadin
155 W. 51st St.
New York, NY 10019
212-554-1515

Asia Adventure Part 3: Back to Hong Kong

We were relieved to come back to Hong Kong, although we did love Bangkok. Less culture shock, I guess. But onto the food!

Greg had emailed us a few places recommended by Anito Lo from Anissa. I guess she had spent some time in Hong Kong and had a few key spots for us to visit. We decided to go to Arirang, a Korean barbeque spot located somewhere in a gigantic mall. Anita Lo is Korean, after all. We literally walked around this mall for what seemed like forever, stopping to ask directions at at least three different Information booths. They were mostly useless. When we finally found it around 8 or 9pm, we felt as though we had found the holy grail. And we were hungry.

So we go in and sit down somewhere in the middle of this huge restaurant in this huge mall, and guess who's sitting practically next to us? Shivaun, and about eight of her three hundred cousins. Nothing makes you feel at home quite like running into people you know :)

One of the best things about this place is the free condiments you get with your order. Kimchee, bean sprouts, green beans, and three others. We ordered the spicy pork and some beef. It was tender and spicy and, of course, hot. We were so hungry after running around this mall that we would have been grateful for any kind of food, but this was really superb. I can only think about two Korean bbq spots I've been to in the city, and this trumps both of them.

Then they brought out some free strawberry ice cream for dessert. I was in love.

Arirang

Harbour City

Tsim Sha Tsui

Shop G07, Ground Floor, Ocean Terminal

Kowloon, Hong Kong
2956 3288

Our last day in Hong Kong was arguably the most memorable. Rob and I took a ferry from Central to Lamma Island, a somewhat large (third largest in HK, of many), mainly desserted island. No cars, only dirt roads, lots of farms and sleeping dogs. We arrived in one fishing village and hiked across the mountain to the other fishing village, using the few directional signs along the way as our only means of navigation. The whole experience felt like a dream. We didn't see a lot of people on our journey. When we reached the top of the hill and saw the second fishing village down below, we rejoiced. We were starving!!

There were lots of little seafood restaurants along the waterfront. They all begged us to sit down, they gave us menus and business cards, some even said "table for two?" and pointed to a nearby table. The entire space was practically empty. I guess it was the off-season? We walked across the little boardwalk before settling on a place called Rainbow. They offered a free ride on their private boat back to Hong Kong. Sold!!

For the equivalent of about $50 USD we enjoyed a very fresh seven course seafood lunch. We deserved it after that long hike! And we had a nice view of the water, watching the old fishing boats bob in the water.

First course, calamari. I've never been a big fan and these were fried in large pieces so as to retain its rubberyness. Luckily they gave us three kinds of sauces that kind of helped in the taste department.

Next, spiny lobster! Unlike the lobsters we all know and love in Maine, these little guys are smaller and don't have any claws to speak of. Served simply, with a few chopped onions. Buttery and tender.

Course three: an unidentified white fish. The waiter de-boned it for us so quickly we didn't even get a good look at what we were eating! But it was buttery and soft and obviously fresh tasting.

The next dish was our favorite: scallop with glass noodle, tons of garlic and scallion. Honestly I've never been a big scallop eater (unless its wrapped in bacon!) but I loved it served this way. It was fun to tug the meat out of its shell and wrap it up with a forkful of garlicky noodles.

Next, the veggie! I think it was kale. It was slippery, like it was doused in oil.

Then the shrimp fried rice. It was good to get something a bit more substantial, but we were getting full so we barely dented it.

We finished with some fruit -- cantelope and pineapple. Simple and elegant. Everything was just so fresh and to eat it in this setting was nothing less than amazing.

After our meal we went up to inspect the tanks from which our lunch was just fetched. Kind of a scary sight. This is why we checked it out after lunch and not before.

Interesting sidenote: Chow Yun Fat was born in Lamma, and he has eaten at Rainbow! Oh the funny things you can find online.

Rainbow Seafood Restaurant

First St. Sok Kwu Wan

Lamma Isand, HK

29828100

We didn't have a meal that topped this one in HK, so I won't bother explaining any more. But on our last night in Hong Kong, Shivaun took us to a Chinese restaurant where we ordered a number of dishes, including this one pork dish. Any ideas what this fat noodley-looking garnish may be?

If you guessed anything other than jellyfish, you are wrong! Because it's jellyfish. This was our tender send-off. We were ready to go home the next day.

Thanks Shivaun, for making the most amazing trip of our lives possible!!