Smorgasburg & Brooklyn Flea

Lately my weekend mornings have started like this: wake up, stretch, and stroll over to the Williamsburg waterfront to get some grub. On Saturdays, Smorgasburg has dozens of food vendors from all over Brooklyn. On Sundays the space is shared with vendors selling jewelry and antiques and other overpriced junk at the Brooklyn Flea, so the food selection is smaller. Either way, it's a great summer alternative to brunch.

We usually start with a Vietnamese iced coffee made from a blend of Viet style coffee, Cafe du Monde and condensed milk. Sometimes I taste a bit of chocolate in there. Really sweet and refreshing.

Then its onto the food. On super hot days when I need something light and cool, I really like the Cheong Fun noodle from Noodle Lane. It's kind of like a deconstructed summer roll with cucumbers, scallions, sprouts and peanut sauce.

Or if heat's not an issue, a whole pie right out of the oven from Pizza Moto is not a bad choice. Featured here is the pepperoni with basil.

If its meaty sandwiches you crave, there's a Porchetta stand, and we know how I feel about that. But there's also another great choice -- the Smoked Meat sandwich from Mile End. Cured and smoked brisket with just the right amount of mustard. The meat is fall-apart tender.

Speaking of brisket. I'm not a huge hot dog person, but even so I can appreciate a good weiner from Brooklyn Bangers. The brainchild of Saul Bolton, Brooklyn Bangers serves up dogs made with 100% brisket. 

As for the things I wouldn't go out of my way for, the short rib Takumi Taco is a bit overpriced and not so memorable, and the original sandwich from Bombay was a bit carb-heavy with the potatoes. Plus it got a little mushy.

I like to end things on a sweet note. If it's ice cream you crave, Blue Marble is a very respectable choice. 

But I personally cannot leave the waterfront without a donut from Dough. They made fun of me when I got a plain 'ol sugar cinnamon, so today I had the chocolate frosted with cocoa nibs, the bitter chocolate balancing the sweet amazingly. I have no idea how they get these donuts so high and fluffy. They might even be better than Peter Pan, but I think further research is necessary before I make such a crazy statement. I still have to try the dulce de leche, blood orange and cafe au lait flavors... to start, at least.

Smorgasburg and Brooklyn Flea 
East River Waterfront
Entrance at N. 7th and Kent Ave
Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Montreal

In the four days I spent in Montreal last week, I did not have one bad meal. In fact, I didn't even have one sub-par meal. And we didn't even venture out to any of the truly extraordinary places we were supposed to, like Au Pied du Cochon. Even places we went to by accident and had very slow service by well-meaning teenage volunteers pumped out good food (it was called Robin des Bois, which yes, means "Robin Hood," and yes, we are the "rich" in this situation.)


Best meal by far was at Joe Beef. This was actually one of the best dinners I've ever had anywhere. Meaty pork belly with a savory sauce and small salad of frisee paired amazingly with my 2009 Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional. A creamy foie gras "parfait" accompanied by home made granola bars. Spread the foie gras on top, lose your ability to speak. I might have teared up a little it was so good. Small scallops with a lemon caper sauce better than any I've ever had. A crazy unique special of shredded chicken, duck and quail reassembled back on a single bone with a Vietnamese-inspired broth. An insanely huge "baked potato" for dessert -- a meringue coated in chocolate powder with house made banana-chocolate soft serve and drizzled with chocolate sauce.  

I fell in love with Montreal-style bagels. Made by hand from a huge pile of dough at Fairmount, then wood-fired. Half the size of NY bagels, less doughy, less salty, and yet, still addicting, especially with a thick smear of cream cheese. Fairmount bagels stand up much better at local coffeeshops too -- just a quick toast and its almost as good as fresh from the store. Well, not really. But better than secondhand bagels in NY for sure. Below: Fairmount bagels, one fresh, one panini'ed at Cafe Veritas, my favorite coffee spot for the week. And the dough and ovens at Fairmount.

We happened to visit during their annual light winter light festival -- Montreal en Lumiere. The street food here was fantastic. Poutin from Frite Alors!, thin french fries topped with a savory, salty, almost bacon-y gravy and cheese curds. My first poutin experience. Then waffles with chocolate baked into them at Gaufrabec. The guy was so excited when I told him their waffles were way better than Waffles & Dinges. Pressing the chocolate into the batter made all the difference.

One of our favorite lunches was at Brit & Chips. Each kind of fish comes with its own batter. I had haddock with a minimally sweet maple syrup batter, Rob had cod with their signature Burgundy Lion batter. The fish itself was tender and juice within a hot, crunchy crust. We both opted for an order of chips. We couldn't finish them. By the end of lunch, we felt too greasy to rush back the next day, but I was intrigued by the Guinness-battered salmon and hake with orange crush batter. Next time.

I had a slightly disappointing lunch at Soupesoup. Great space, tall ceilings, lots of light. The lentil soup was good, but the huevos rancheros sandwich came cold. What gives? Maybe it was just a fluke, as Rob's bolognese soup and grilled cheese was hot. They had great coffee, though. 

Finally, a parting breakfast at La Croissanterie Figaro. The Bonjour special -- a croissant topped with ham, tomatoes and cheese, fresh fruit, orange juice, cafe au lait. Hot chocolate for Rob. And a chocolate croissant for the ride home.

On the list for next time -- Au Pied du Cochon, La Salle a Manger, Le Comptoir (they couldn't accommodate last time, hence Robin Hood meal), Le Local, where I smelled something amazing simmering around lunchtime, and Juni for sushi after a local foodie tipped me off about them.

Greenpoint Groupons, Goodies & Gems

We've been keeping it local lately. It's too cold to go venturing out on long walks like we do in the summer. Even walks along the bus route is risky. Does the B62 even exist anymore? Luckily we've had some Groupons and new openings around Greenpoint to keep us occupied.

Spritzenhaus, right on McCarren Park, is fun and lively even in the winter. Our Groupon got us an order of double dipped fries with a homemade condiment (we chose sweet & spicy bbq and Greek yogurt sauce), and any sausage or brat with any topping. I had the artisanal Argentinian (beef sausage, rosemary, garlic) with caramelized onions and peppers; he had the duck sausage with bacon, jalapeno and fig spread topped with sauerkraut. Both very good and hot off the grill. It reminded me a little bit of San Francisco's Rosamunde Sausage Grill, but it's not quite as good as the west coast.

Ah, Paulie Gees. Seems like PG gets so much press, the place is always crowded, people rave about how its the best pizza ever. I'm trying to like it, but can't quite get there. No doubt they've done wonderful things with the space since it was quiet and secretive Paloma. We went when they first opened awhile back, and the service was slow and the dough was undersalted. We had Motorino nearby then, so we didn't see a need to come back. But now that Motorino's out of the neighborhood and we're starved for quality pizza, we headed back to see if changes had been made. Yes, and no. The salt problem seems to be resolved, but the bottom of the pizza is SO unforgivably soggy. And the balance is all off. The Hellboy sounds like my ideal pizza (Fior di Latte, Italian tomatoes, soppressata picante, parmesan and hot honey) but there was so much pork and so little cheese and sauce that it just felt sloppily thrown together. Same with the Cheek Corea salad, with chick peas, hardened bits of old pasta, red onion and lemon juice. But the crispy guanciale was good at least.

No. 7 Sub opened a block away from us on Wednesday, at the corner of Manhattan Ave and Kent St. I'm excited, but it also makes me nervous for the neighborhood. Usually Manhattan transplants head for Bedford Ave (like the Meatball Shop). I wonder if this will set off a chain reaction.

Anyway, I'm a fan of No. 7 Sub, but I wasn't too impressed with what we brought home Wednesday. The General Tso's Tofu had way too much ginger, and the beef brisket was a little fatty. I'll have to try a few others off the Greenpoint menu before I write them off, though. I hope they stay open late; it's a great place for a night cap and a better alternative to bodega sandwiches.
 

Brooklyn MAC. It's this borrough's answer to the East Village's S'mac (and it might be even better). I like the idea of building your own, always hot and creamy inside and crunchy on the outside. I usually go for a combination of smoked gouda and bacon (they call that one the Red Hook) or something equally salty. They also have a great salad called the McCarren Park with baby spinach, candied walnuts, gorgonzola, apples and raisins, but they add way too much balsamic. Ask for it on the side.

 There are a few great places hidden away in the northern part of Greenpoint, too. The Lobster Joint has been pretty quiet since its winter and all, but they have a great creamless lobster bisque with herbs. It warms you from the inside out. Milk and Roses, which used to be a daytime coffee spot only, has morphed into a cute nighttime respite. We had a Groupon for a wine and cheese pairing for two. Walls of books, a grand piano, oil lanterns, hushed conversation, a girl curled up on the couch with a book and a cup of tea. I love this place even more now. And the owner's a nice Italian man that always waves when we walk by. 

Spritzenhaus
 33 Nassau Ave


Paulie Gees
60 Greenpoint Ave

No. 7 Sub
931 Manhattan Ave

Brooklyn MAC
77 Norman Ave

Lobster Joint
1073 Manhattan Ave

Milk & Roses
1110 Manhattan Ave

Sandwich Fridays Continue

I've been a lot more true to this summer's sandwich promise than I was to last year's burger endeavors. I've already got two more to add to the list: Blue Ribbon Bakery and Baoguette.

After a great panini at Ino on Bedford Street, my summer sandwich friend and I decided to give Blue Ribbon Bakery right across the street a go. They only do takeout, so it was a good excuse to grab some food and head over to the waterfront for some picnic-style scenic dining.

Blue Ribbon Bakery's sandwiches are all open-faced. Most just include a butter (like fresh churned or cashew) and/or a cheese (like manchego and stilton). While I was too hungry to consider a bread, butter and cheese sandwich (good as they sounded), I went with the heartier duck breast with honey mustard. I was surprised to see that they sliced the bread AND the duck fresh from the loaf/full breast. They loaded the meat on top of the toasted bread and sprinkled some parsley on top. It was just the right amount of food.

And I should mention that the place was empty and the guys working here were really friendly. Another West Village sandwich winner!

Blue Ribbon Bakery Market
14 Bedford St.
(212) 647-0408

I recently made my second trip to Baoguette, the much-hyped Vietnamese sandwich shop down on Lexington. I don't know why it took me so long to get hooked on banh mis. I love Vietnamese food, and always figured noodles were the best vehicle for the sweet and spicy flavors. But I was wrong! Crispy bread gives the whole mess texture, and as long as it has some spicy meat, some fresh herbs and something sweet to balance out the flavors, I'm happy.

Their classic banh mi comes with a thin layer of pate, spicy pork and lots of carrots and cilantro. They always ask if you want it spicy, and if you say yes, they don't mess around. 

My favorite is their signature Sloppy Bao, with spicy curried beef, green mango, basil and lemongrass. The flavors together are perfect in the summer: fresh, sweet, slightly fruity.

 
The only thing that could use a little help here is the atmosphere. I don't mind eating at a cramped counter facing the wall, but when that wall has a mirror, it makes it a little awkward to chow down on spicy food. Here's a tip for summergoers: eat towards the back of the room, where there's a small fan that will just barely keep you from passing out. It's uncomfortable, but the baoguettes are worth it!

Baoguette
61 Lexington Ave (between 25th & 26th) 
(212) 532-1133

Sandwich Fridays

While last year's early release summer Fridays yielded celebratory cheeseburgers of all shapes and sizes, this summer's theme so far has been sandwiches. Since Grubstreet's 101 Best Sandwiches list was released, I've been mapping out sandwich shops wherever my early weekend happens to take me. Last week I met a friend in the West Village, and we headed over to sandwich winner #18's establishment -- Ino.

Ah, what's not to love about the West Village? Tiny, charmingly paved narrow streets that cut through the avenues like organic growth. Tiny coffeeshops, bakeries, bars. And Ino, a cafe and wine bar that seems to specialize in bread -- most of the menu is paninis and bruschetta.

Most items have about three ingredients. Usually something simple and fresh, with enough variation to stay interesting. Like the artichoke with fennel and fontina, or cacciatorini (a type of salami) with goat cheese and black olive pesto. Not everyone knows what all the ingredients are, so they have a little cheat sheet on the back that defines everything from pancetta to mortadella.

I had the soppressata with fontina (cheese) and rucola (arugula). It was laid out thinly across two pieces of bread so crusty it cut up the roof of my mouth a little. The oozy cheese, salty meat and crusty bread kept me coming back for more anyway. It was served with a very cute and tasty little mushroom and pepper salad.

While I didn't order the recommended quattro panino, I'm finding it hard to believe that Ino ranked all the way up at #18. I'm a little curious as to why Faicco's huge soppressata didn't make the list either. Well, speculation aside, I'm glad to have experienced a small slice of the West Village the other day -- and to check another sandwich off my list.

Ino Cafe & Wine Bar
21 Bedford St (between Downing St & Houston St) 
(212) 989-5769

Adventures in San Fran: Cafes, Bakeries and Ice Cream

While running from the Full House house to the Mrs. Doubtfire house and delivering sick hummingbirds (OK... hummingbird) to the animal hospital, we needed caffeine and a lot of fast snacks. Luckily there are tons of great spots all over the city, and Rob mapped a few of them out so we could visit quickly as we shuttled along.I had the first iced coffee of 2010 at Cafe Murano, a cute neighborhood wifi spot on Steiner Street. Tasted like good high-quality coffee, but with too much ice it was a little watered down too fast. It was definitely refreshing after a hike up the hill to Alta Plaza, a quiet little park with a great view of the city.

Cafe Murano
1777 Steiner Street (between Post St & Sutter St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 771-0888

That afternoon we were stuck in touristy Fisherman's Wharf, with no viable food options beyond a Bubba Gump Shrimp. I did a quick search on Yelp and found a highly rated Argentinean truck called Tanguito with quiet off-strip outdoor seating. Score! We shared a fresh, flaky ham and cheese empanada, then we each had two huge sandwiches on French bread. My steak sandwich had peppers, onions, mushrooms and a fantastic homemade chimichurri sauce; Rob had a sausage sandwich with similar toppings. We were only looking for a late afternoon snack, but it was so much food we were good for the rest of the day... until we made our way to Ghirardelli Square.

I know it sounds gimmicky and touristy but I really think this was the best hot fudge sundae I've ever had. The homemade chocolate chip ice cream was thick, creamy, actual good vanilla with lots of chips, topped with melted dark Ghirardelli chocolate, heavy whipped cream and walnuts. I could have sat by the fountain people watching with this sundae all night.

Rob had the sea salt caramel hot chocolate. I didn't find it all that salty or caramelly but then again I was pretty engrossed in the sundae.

Ghirardelli Square
900 N Point St
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 775-5500

The next day, after an afternoon at the Botanical Gardens, we headed over to Arizmendi Bakery for a coffee and snack. Every day they have a special pizza (this particular day it was artichokes, tomatoes, basil and rosemary oil) that people seem to go crazy for; they actually ran out while we were visiting and a lot of disappointed customers ensued. They also specialize in pastries and breads, all of which looked fresh and enticing. We finally decided on a cheddar scone. Wow. Hard, crunchy sections of cheddar melted along the sides, contrasted well with the softer insides, ended with a nice spice from red pepper. I wish we had time to try more here... but we had places to go.


Arizmendi Bakery
1331 9th Ave (between Irving St & Judah St)
San Francisco, CA
94122 (415) 566-3117

One day we got up ridiculously early to rent a car and head up to Oakland and eventually Napa. A block down the street from our hotel was a little cafe called Em's Place with very decent coffee and fairly awesome breakfast sandwiches. I had an egg and cheese on a cheese bagel, it was too cheesy to even take a picture. Rob's ham, bacon and egg sandwich held up much better under the poppyseed bagel and made a great Bay Bridge car breakfast.


Em's Place
154 McAllister St (at Hyde St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 552-8379

While driving through Napa we looped around through Yountville so I could see the French Laundry in the flesh (er.. stone?). Just down the street is Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery, which also exists in New York at Columbus Circle. They have a few good sandwiches here, like the turkey with cranberry. They don't stuff the sandwiches all that much -- it was only about a single slice of turkey -- but the bread is so freshly baked that it doesn't really matter that it makes up 85% of the whole sandwich. They'll even toast it for you too if you aren't in a rush.



The most impressive part of this bakery though, is the macarons. I'm embarrassed to say that I was a macaron virgin before Yountville, and this place has turned me into a full-fledged believer. Or have I just been ruined for macarons? Damn you Thomas Keller.

I guess I can't compare them to other macarons, but I think they were everything they were supposed to be -- crusty on the outside, chewy beneath the crust, creamy and flavorful on the inside. The sweet buttercream gave me tiny sugar rush headaches, but they were worth it.

We tried just about every kind there was. We came back after visiting a few wineries to bring more home. We ate them one at a time the next day at different benches in the Marin Headlands. We tried to savor them as much as possible.

I think my favorite one was the seasonal -- orange cream. Then the espresso and hazelnut. The vanilla, chocolate and caramel weren't so shabby, either.

I'll definitely be back here next time I go to Napa. Maybe then I'll give the regular Bouchon a try -- or (do I dare to dream?) the French Laundry!

Bouchon Bakery

6528 Washington St
Yountville, CA 94599

(707) 944-2253

French Laundry
6640 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599

(707) 944-2380