North Brooklyn Treasures -- Coffee, Ice Cream, and Movie Sets

On nice days after work, I like to take the 7 train to Vernon Jackson in Queens and then walk home over the Pulaski Bridge. Not only do I get a good 20 minutes of walking off the day, I get to explore one of my favorite areas -- the northernmost tip of Greenpoint. I'm not really sure why this place fascinates me so much. I guess it amazes me that such a very convenient area of Brooklyn has remained totally industrial, save for a few culinary gems that I've come to cherish. When walking alongside the huge warehouses and remote fish markets and who knows what else, all of a sudden you're in a neighborhood with delis and pharmacies and flowers in the window. I find it strangely inspiring.

Commercial Street looks exactly like it sounds, and stretches across Greenpoint as the last street before Newtown Creek. While there's not a whole lot going on, it has its perks. One of Commercial Street's best feature right now is the construction of an old timey Atlantic City boardwalk in one of the empty lots for HBO's upcoming show, Boardwalk Empire (exciting!). Here's a look at it had progressed the last time I wandered by:

The other, probably more important reason to visit Commercial Street: the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, which opened last November. The Nicky Hilton to its attention-loving sister at the Brooklyn Bridge, you never have to wait in line for a cone here. The ice cream is light and simple, not in the least rich or heavy tasting, probably because they don't use eggs in their recipe. I haven't tried any complex flavors yet -- only vanilla, chocolate, and coffee -- but they sure hit the mark on the traditional flavors.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory
97 Commercial St
Brooklyn, NY 11222

(718) 349-2506

From Commercial Street heading down, the streets are named alphabetically (Ash St., Box St., etc.). Keep in mind that my street, Greenpoint Ave, is the exception and should really be "Leanpoint" Ave (and, to confuse things further, the "G" street is of course called Green). So with that little geographical lesson in mind, I introduce Ashbox, the Japanese coffee shop on Manhattan Ave between Ash and Box, a good ten blocks away from home. Because of its distance -- and the fact that its closed on Sundays, after 6pm on weekdays and basically every other convenient time -- I don't get to visit Ashbox often. And that's unfortunate.

I don't know where all the patrons come from, but this place sure gets packed on a Saturday morning. Luckily though, it doesn't seem like it at all because everyone stays unusually hushed, often with their laptop, for some work time or quiet time, I suppose. Soft piano music plays from the speakers. People sip on homemade tea and nosh on homemade tofu salad or other healthy, semi Asian-style goodies. And where else can you find Japanese fluffy bread?

I ordered an iced coffee one morning while looking up movies for us to see at the MOMA. It was nice and strong, perfect for preventing wateryness when the ice starts to melt. Rob's hot chocolate tasted amazing, with hints of spices neither of us could even identify. The only problem was that 75% of the cup was foam. Very tasty foam, but foam nonetheless.

Ashbox
1154 Manhattan Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11222
(718) 389-3222

If you ever feel like taking a random stroll to a quiet area in our fair borrough, this is your place. But keep in mind you have to walk all the way back to India Street for the G train's last stop in Brooklyn.

Food Film Festival 2009

Last week Rob and I headed up to the water taxi beach in Long Island City to catch some of the third annual Food Film Festival. It incorporated many things I like -- free stuff, sand, faux palm trees, beer, events that are walkable from my apartment, cheeseburgers, a beautiful view of the city and films that are short enough to fit my attention span. Monday night was a perfect night to go -- it wasn't too crowded and the weather held out, although it did get a little chilly.


The films themselves were okay, although I wasn't terribly impressed with any of them. Beef is Bueno, which gave a brief glimpse into the Argentinian beef farming industry, was one of my favorites. Partially because it makes you think about where your food comes from, but mostly because they handed out free samples of grass-fed beef burgers afterwards (but WHY on earth would they put ketchup on all of them?!). Eat or We Both Starve was an interesting look at a catfish restaurant in Mississippi with lots of history and a strong Southern soul. I learned quite a lot about how tequila is made from Sixty Hands, but by the end it felt like a really long infomercial for Patron.

Overall, a really fun and unique evening, and the setup on the beach made me feel like I'd left the city (save for the huge skyline looming right across the East River). Maybe next year I'll go more than one evening to see if any films strike my fancy.

Peter Luger.... Finally.

Life is pretty good when both your best friends and your boyfriend were planning on taking you to Peter Luger for your birthday. I'm the biggest steak fan I know, and to never visit the place that repeatedly receives SO much hype just seemed very wrong. Now that I can add my name to the guest list, I think my life trajectory might be a little bit more on track. A very special thanks to my pals for making this happen!

It's really hard to live up to Luger style hype, and thankfully, they did not disappoint. Six of us went for lunch last Saturday, and I was amazed at how many people were packed into the front room, waiting for a seat.

Everything here was top notch, from the service to the dinner rolls. First up, the bacon. I don't think I've never seen bacon this large before. These crazy big slabs were more like charry, smoky, fatty ham. I was planning on saving a piece for the cheeseburger, but that was impossible -- it was all gone in minutes. I had to be very quick to grab this picture before it all got snatched up!

Peter Luger is repeatedly awarded with best burger awards, so we ordered one with cheese and one without, medium rare. The cheeseburger was perfectly cooked, nicely seasoned, and the slice of mild cheddar on top really helped define it. Definitely an ideal burger, though I'm skeptical of its best in the city status. I'll have to do my research.

I didn't get a picture of the creamed spinach because I was too focused on not picking up the bowl and trying to drink it down. You didn't even have to chew it once. I can't imagine how much butter and cream must have gone into it to make it taste so amazing.

Finally, the porterhouse: Steak for Three! Medium rare, obviously. The steak arrived on a sizzling hot plate -- so hot that you can sear pieces of beef on it to suite your taste, as the waiter demonstrated for us. They put a small upside down saucer underneath one end of the plate to keep all the juices down on one side. Then the waiter put a piece of meat on each of our plates and topped it with a spoonful of the juices ("fat-free," he jokes). The meat was very tender and flavorful, to a point that I don't even think I realized until I had the leftovers the next day. Leftovers should never be so good. The visible pieces of fat aren't chewy or rubbery, they meld into the meat and melt so nicely on your tongue. Perfect amount of char on top of the meat as well.

One thing that Rob pointed out to me later -- where's the fillets? Porterhouses should have the filet side. They are missing. This upsets me, as the huge potential of filets at Luger's is lost.

If I told you I was too full for dessert, I would be lying. I totally could have done it. It was actually the layer of grease I felt forming in my stomach that urged me to opt out. I'll have you next time, sundae with homemade schlag. Next time....

Peter Luger

178 Broadway

Brooklyn, NY 11211

718-387-7400

The Charm of Dressler

There are three Michelin-rated restaurants in Brooklyn, and so far I've only visited one -- Dressler. The others are Peter Luger right across the street (visit pending next month!) and Saul in Cobble Hill. After a recent second visit to Dressler, I'm fairly certain they deserve that Michelin star, even though this puts them at the same level as Anissa (which I think deserves two Michelins stars. Can the tubby tire man just hire me already?).

Dressler is elegant without being pretentious; the iron chandeliers and lightboxes evoke a kind of modern bohemian chic feel. The room, and especially the bar, displays lots of beautiful, intricate metal work that, according to the site, was crafted from Brooklyn Navy Yard sculptors. It reinforces its Brooklyn presence. (Pic taken from their site)

The menu is mostly simple items, prepared thoughtfully with (seemingly?) few ingredients. Diver scallops are drizzed with white truffle oil, ricotta raviolini are served in a light tomato & parmesan broth, artichoke salad is served in a lemon half. Roasted beets & citrus salad are served with Greek yogurt and olive tapenade. Presentation is lovely and the flavors are simple yet unique.

I usually fight the urge to order the beef on a menu, but when I saw they had two kinds of steak in an entree, I did not bother to fight it. The grilled sirloin was cooked perfectly, and the braised short rib accompaniment was as soft as jelly. To kick up the comfort food factor, they serve it with mashed potatoes and a bit of creamed spinach, but the grilled ramps give it a little something extra.

On my last visit, I successfully avoided the steak trap (delicious though it was) and enjoyed the bacon wrapped monkfish with risotto. I think I prefer this monkfish method over the simple medallion slices at Le Bernadin, although this version was WAY saltier. Saltiness aside, the fish was incredibly tender, and you don't even know where the bacon ends and the monkfish begins. Such culinary beauty.

The service here was fantastic on both visits as well. The waitstaff is very friendly, attentive, and they have a sense of humor too. You can't go wrong with the bread the bring out pre-meal, either (parker roll or ciabatta?).

Michelin star deserved.

Dressler

149 Broadway

(between 6th St & Driggs Ave)

Brooklyn, NY 11211

(718) 384-6343

A New Jersey Excursion: In Search of Beniotome Sesame Shochu

Last week, Rob and I took a trip across the George Washington bridge into the strange and wonderful land that is Fort Lee and Edgewater, New Jersey. We had two destinations in mind: Hudson Wine Market and Mitsuwa Marketplace.

As I've mentioned before, Rob loves Beniotome sesame shochu. He orders it at nearly every trip to Bozu, EN Japanese Brasserie or other high-end Japanese restaurants, but it seems to be impossible to find for retail sale in the city. Fortunately, he found that Hudson Wine Market carries it, and that it would only be a short drive away.

Shochu is a Japanese distilled drink, and Wikipedia says its made from barley, sweet potatoes or rice and is somewhere between wine and whisky in terms of strength (which I agree with completely). The sesame flavored shochu is a little smoky and makes it taste a little stronger than it might actually be. Let it sit in some ice, though, and you'll find that the flavors are very deep and rounded, and that the sesame flavor sings the longest. I'm sipping it now and can't think of any other way to describe it.

Anyway, we had a little bit of difficulty finding the market, as the directions didn't say we had to turn up into a driveway to access a big parking lot for a mini mall. Hudson's was a huge warehouse boasting of all kinds of drinks, from specialized Japanese shochus to obscure reds and whites. I even found a bottle of the 2004 Flowers Pinot noir that I fell in love with at Le Bernadin. And for the $50 price you can bet I bought one. Rob pretty much wiped out their entire selection of Beniotome sesame shochu. To make the trip worth it, you see.

Hudson Wine Market
1638 Schlosser St
Fort Lee, NJ 07024
(201) 346-0101

After the Hudson Wine Market excursion, we headed south to Mitsuwa Marketplace, using the little battery power I had left on my phone for Google maps to guide us. Luckily it was a pretty easy drive. Mitsuwa is a huge Japanese grocery store & specialty shop with an attached food court. They have everything from fresh produce and pickled vegetables to sashimi grade sushi and pre-sliced sukiyaki. I was starving, so we tried a few pre-made sushi rolls, which were okay. We left with a couple of very nicely priced bags of frozen edamame beans, a few packages of red bean moochi and some daikon radish. It's a pretty fun and unique place to just browse around; definitely recommended if you're planning on hosting a sushi party in the near future.

Mitsuwa Marketplace

595 River Road
Edgewater, NJ 07020
(201) 941-9113

Mad for... Chicken?

I just found out that within the past week or so, Koreatown's Bonchon Chicken has been renamed... wait for it... Mad for Chicken. This, as I've read, has been done for easier pronounciation. It's a shame, and puzzling for a few reasons. First of all, how hard is it to say "Bonchon"? Bon. Chon. Secondly, wouldn't a more traditional name work better for a true Korean take on chicken, as opposed to an all American family friendly title? And finally, is it just me, or does the name stir visions of meat-related disease pandemics? Between the old forgotten mad cow and the tired swine outbreak, you would think they'd want to steer clear of a name like Mad for Chicken.

Anyway, I had only visited K-town's favorite fried chicken once, back in February, and for some reason never got around to reviewing it. The rebranding reminded me to dig up the pics and share the experience. And since I visited it before the name change, I will refer to it by its original name.

BonChon is hard to find, hidden on the second floor of a poorly labeled building on 5th Ave. You climb a narrow staircase and then suddenly, you're in a tall ceiling'ed, MOMA-ready industrial space. Lots of concrete and odd looking shapes, big modern chairs and mirrors, very minimalist.

We were told they only had wings at the time of our visit, and that they only had two types -- soy garlic and spicy. We decided on an order of both, plus two sides -- "stick vegetables" and rosemary fries. Both came before the chicken, as appetizers, which was a little strange. We also waited forever for the chicken, also strange seeing as how they just said it was all they had on the menu. The rosemary fries were great, but "stick vegetables" turns out to be a very overpriced third grade snack: carrot sticks and celery sticks and dipping sauce.

And then came the chicken. They fry their birds twice for an extra crunchy outside, and both the soy garlic and the spicy wings showed off some amazing flavors. These were without a doubt the best chicken wings I've ever had. The spicy pieces so hot it was almost painful, but I couldn't stop. I savored every extra crispy bite.

If you haven't been here yet, you must. It's a rite of passage for New Yorkers.

Strange name aside. Because, what's in a name, right?

Mad for Chicken

314 5th Ave, 2nd Fl (between 31st St & 32nd St)

New York, NY 10001

(212) 221-2222

Aurora by Morning

There are not many Italian places to dine in uber-Polish Greenpoint. This is a fact, and I have accepted it. So when I get a craving for a heavy carb meal like my grandma used to make, Rob and I usually head to Williamsburg for some Fiore action. While its good and all, the menu can get old kind of fast and I've been craving something different. This is where Aurora on Grand Street -- also in Williamsburg -- comes in.

I've seen it many times on my sporadic trips to Sprout, the cutest little flower shop you'd ever hope to see. I never thought to go back, though, until Shivaun was in the area for a small eclectic jewelry shop. I guess the Grand Street/Wythe Ave area really is a great destination for odd shopping.

It turns out to be the perfect spot for brunch. There was no wait, unlike most places near our apartment at noon on a Sunday. The atmosphere was rustic and quaint. We sat in the clear-covered garden area so we could both enjoy the sun and not freeze. AND they were playing Elliott Smith. This is basically my idea of brunch heaven.

The menu had quite a few interesting and unique items. I was intrigued by the fried poached egg option, as I've never had a poached egg prepared any way but regularly poached. It was actually really good, crispy on the outside but not too affected on the inside. In came sitting atop smoky prosciutto and a small mound of soft polenta. The flavors and textures played really well together, but it was not enough food for a hungry person such as myself.

So that's why I ended up eating a lot of Shivaun's frittata. Sorry Shivaun. (How did this blog become such a forum for apologies?) It was baked with goat cheese, zuchiniand a few other goodies. I thought the goat cheese was a really great touch, as I've found that frittatas tend to blandify when they're baked. Goat cheese to the rescue!

Rob took the fancy route and ordered the L' Anatra -- duck confit & bacon hash with organic poached egg & baby spinach. Great combination of flavors and one of the more fun brunch items I've seen in awhile. Unfortunately, he didn't get much of a portion either. But that's really the only negative thing I can say about Aurora's brunch. Well, that and no credit cards. What's with all the cash-only places recently? Since when is cash king again?? I demand to know.

I was so enchanted by brunch that I dragged Rob out to Aurora for dinner a few days later. It was good, but not as impressive as I had hoped. I guess the place is aptly named, then, since Aurora is the Roman goddess of the dawn. In my eyes, she is the Brooklyn goddess of the poached egg.

The appetizers were definitely the strongest points of the meal. The ricotta tart was simple and rustic, with the outer layer of dough gently folded over the cheese. Pork belly with seared scallop and beans were also really good. I love these items together, despite the fact that they are not a very original threesome. The fresh flavors and soft textures do a great job piquing your appetite.

The entrees, on the other hand, were a little weak. The pasta was obviously fresh, but both our dishes were a little tasteless. I was expecting anything but bland when I ordered the chestnut flavored, roughly cut pasta with braised beef short rib ragu. I did not detect any chestnut flavor, and while the short rib had a great consistency, it was definitely missing something. Rob felt the same away about his dinner, spaghetti with clams and tomatoes. Maybe they were a little too lighthanded with the salt that evening?

Dessert was an apple tart with caramel and vanilla ice cream. It was a nice way to end the meal.

Well, despite dinner being sort of a disappointment, this place has its redeeming factors. Brunch, for instance. Appetizers. A really great wine list and a pretty authentic rustic vibe. Can't you just feel the warmth by looking at this terribly lit iPhone pic?

(My apologies for forgetting my real camera. And now I'm done apologizing... at least for this post!)

Aurora

70 Grand St (between Kent Ave & Wythe Ave)

Brooklyn, NY 11211

(718) 388-5100